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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. But, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.